Today is National Underwear Day, and after writing last week’s post, First Crushes in Plain Sight, I realized there was another chapter to that story.
For many gay men of my generation, underwear wasn’t just something we wore. It was one of the first ways we noticed the male body, even if we didn’t yet understand why we were looking. Department store catalogs, magazine advertisements, and those cardboard underwear packages all offered perfectly acceptable reasons to admire handsome men. Eventually, though, we grew up, started buying our own underwear, and discovered that what we wore could say something about who we were—or at least who we wanted to be.
When I was a kid in the 1980s, briefs ruled. Hanes, Fruit of the Loom, and Jockey were what almost every boy wore. If you were in elementary school, you probably also had a pair of Underoos featuring your favorite superhero. There was something magical about putting on Superman or Batman before heading off to school.
That changed surprisingly quickly.
By the time I reached high school in the early 1990s, briefs had practically disappeared from the boys’ locker room. Everyone seemed to wear either boxer shorts or the then-new boxer briefs. Wearing briefs wasn’t just considered old-fashioned—it was often dismissed as “gay.” Looking back, it’s ironic considering how popular briefs have become again, especially within the gay community.
As gay culture developed its own fashion trends, underwear became something entirely different. It wasn’t simply about comfort anymore. It became another way to express personality, confidence, and sometimes a sense of humor.
One company that deserves special recognition is Ginch Gonch. Long before novelty underwear became commonplace, Ginch Gonch embraced bright colors, cartoon-inspired graphics, and playful designs that felt like Underoos for grown men. They proved men’s underwear didn’t have to be plain, and they helped pave the way for many of the brands that followed.
No discussion would be complete without Andrew Christian. For nearly three decades, Andrew Christian defined gay underwear marketing. The company’s colorful designs, playful advertising, and signature pouch technology influenced countless competitors. Although Andrew Christian recently retired and closed the brand, its impact on gay fashion is hard to overstate. In many ways, it marks the end of one of the most influential chapters in gay men’s underwear.
Another thing that changed the industry was the use of gay adult film stars as underwear models. I can’t remember whether Andrew Christian or Ginch Gonch embraced the idea first—Topher DiMaggio became one of Andrew Christian’s most recognizable faces, while Benjamin Bradley was synonymous with Ginch Gonch for many years—but once the trend caught on, it spread quickly. Today, it’s common for underwear companies to feature well-known gay models, adult film stars, and social media personalities in their advertising. Coyote Jocks, for example, has featured Oliver Marks in campaigns. It makes sense from a marketing standpoint. These are men who already have devoted followings, and they bring a level of confidence and authenticity that resonates with many gay consumers.
Other companies soon found devoted followings. Brands like 2(X)IST and C-IN2 helped bridge the gap between department store underwear and underwear designed specifically with gay men in mind. Today, companies such as Charlie by Matthew Zink, CellBlock 13, Nasty Pig, PUMP!, Cocksox, 2EROS, Rufskin, Coyote Jocks, Bang, Hung, and Papi each serve their own corner of the market, whether that’s athletic, luxury, fetish, nightlife, or simply fashion-forward basics.
Designer labels have also played an enormous role. Calvin Klein, in particular, transformed men’s underwear advertising into something aspirational. Those iconic campaigns made underwear sexy in a way it had never been before. Emporio Armani, Hugo Boss, and Diesel continued that tradition, making underwear something worth showing off instead of hiding beneath your clothes.
Ironically, the brands many of us grew up wearing have found a second life in certain gay communities. Hanes, Fruit of the Loom, and especially classic Jockey briefs have become favorites within some nostalgia and underwear fetish circles. What was once considered ordinary—or even embarrassingly plain—has become appealing precisely because of its simplicity and familiarity. Sometimes yesterday’s basics become today’s fetish.
Then there are the styles themselves. Today, briefs have enjoyed a remarkable comeback, especially within the gay community. Boxer briefs remain an everyday favorite for many men, while trunks offer a shorter, more modern silhouette. Boxer shorts still have their loyal fans, even if they’re not nearly as common as they once were. Bikini briefs, jockstraps, and thongs each have their own devoted audiences, and today there’s far less concern about whether one style is somehow “more masculine” than another.
Of course, if you’ve spent any time on gay social media, you’ve probably encountered one of the countless “gay underwear spectrum” memes that supposedly explain your preferred position based entirely on what’s in your underwear drawer. I’ve included one of my favorites below.
They’re completely ridiculous.
That’s also what makes them so funny.
I know tops who wear briefs, bottoms who swear by boxer briefs, versatile guys who collect jockstraps, and plenty of men whose favorite underwear is simply whatever happened to be on sale at Costco. Like most stereotypes, the memes are funny because they exaggerate tiny grains of truth into something absurd.
Looking back, it’s amazing how much underwear has changed during my lifetime. What was once a purely practical purchase has become fashion, self-expression, nostalgia, and, for many gay men, a celebration of the male body. It has also become another way for gay men to recognize ourselves in advertising. Where department store catalogs once gave us anonymous models to admire, today’s underwear campaigns often feature men many of us already know—from fitness influencers to adult film stars to social media personalities. That’s a remarkable evolution in just a few decades.
So, in honor of National Underwear Day, pull on your favorite pair of underwear and celebrate the day—whether it’s a classic pair of white briefs, comfortable boxer briefs, colorful trunks, a favorite jockstrap, or anything in between. After all, confidence is always in style.
I can’t resist asking: What’s your favorite style—and has it changed over the years? Do you have a favorite brand? I’d love to hear your answers in the comments.
Joe
The Closet Professor 